3D Printing with Octoprint

Background info

About a year ago (October 2023) I was using the 3D printers to make the parts for my fiber optic LED lamp project. These prints took upwards of 10 hours and I often found the makerspace to be locked at the times I wanted to check on them, especially considering some of the parts were very easily prone to failure. To solve this issue I switched the system that runs our Orange Prusa Mk3 from Pronterface to an open-source webserver-based solution called Octoprint. Octoprint allows for all kinds of remote printer management utilities like preheating, filament changes, remote printing, and webcam streaming. Octoprint also has a large repository of plugins that range from things like multiple webcams, AI print failure detection, and the ability to exclude certain parts of a .GCODE file from being printed (this is really helpful if you are printing 10 separate parts at once and one of them begins to fail since you don’t have to stop the whole print and try again). There is also a 3rd party app called OctoApp for iOS and Android that allows you to manage your printer via Octoprint from your phone. I learned a lot more about 3D printers in a timespan much shorter than I thought I would and as a result of this, Dr. Urbano no longer knows how to use our 3D printers without my help.

The Octoprint server runs locally on the computers at the 3D printer stations in the makerspace. The URLs to access each printer when connected to the school WiFi network are listed below and the login info can be found on the back of the respective printer.

Prusa1 URL: http://20.1.0.17:5000

Prusa2 URL: http://20.1.0.71:5000

Prusa3 URL: http://20.1.0.72:5000

Prusa1 Octoprint setup

NFC plaque allows you to tap your phone to quick view the live webcam feed
Photoresistor controls the webcam backlight
Prusa1 Octoprint web interface

Prusa2 and Prusa3 setup

Prusa2 (left), Prusa3 (right)
Prusa2 Octoprint web interface

OctoApp remote access

Starship rocket

Miles and I made a model of the Starship rocket to electroplate for our science fair project

First, we 3d printed the model.

Then we heavily sanded the rocket with multiple different grits to get it as smooth as possible

After sanding we coating the rocket with filler paint to fill in the printing lines, then sanding the filler paint again.

Next, we coated the rocket multiple times with conductive spray paint.

The electroplate experiment failed but it’s fine.

If we did this again, we would probably use a different conductive.

This picture is of miles sanding the rocket.

LED Narwhal Lamp Like Object

I made this lamp like object during interim’s. It started off as a coaster, but later on there became so many layers of wood that I decided that its more of a lamp than a coaster. I made it by first drawing the design for the narwhal and then upload it to the computer. after that I had to laser cut the narwhal. The first time I made the coaster/lamp the resin leaked out because the narwhal was too thick of wood, so the second time I had to use a thinner type of wood then I did before. After I made the narwhal I had to calculate how much resin I would need to fill up the frame. I then made the resin and added glitter but kept the color clear. I had to clamp it down since there was no resin mold that would fit the wood frame. In this picture I’m filling down the leaked resin with a chisel, and I many or may not have cut my self like 2 seconds after Doc took this picture. After all of that I had to solder the Raspberry Pie (the computer), and it was fun to do. Next I put the LED’s in and made the other compartments of the base. I used wood glue to get all the pieces together, and then after it dried I was done. This was very fun to make and I am excited to try it again some time to improve and fix things that I wish I did a little different!

Wooden Sword REFORMED

This is the second time I’ve done this sword, and it worked this time! I CNC’d the sword’s shape like before and started to rasp the sword to make the edges smooth. After most of the wood’s edges were smooth, I chiseled them until they were even smoother. When I was in the CNC phase, the CNC messed up and made a wiggly line through the middle. Luckily, it turned out looking really cool because it kind of looked like a crack through the sword. I didn’t do epoxy this time because I was worried that I would mess it up again and glue it to the table.

Ornaments.

All I made was ornaments and tried to make a 3d printed jellyfish but I tried around fourteen times and only one of them worked and I lost that one. The ornaments I made for the craft fair and they didn’t sell very well. There was one thing that I made that wasn’t a ornament and I laser cut and it turned out well and I’m happy with it.

mini Hockey stick for chameleon

To make the hockey stick I started by looking up photos of hockey sticks. Once I chose one I saved it and put it in the website. Next I got a hairline outline. I used natural hard wood and the Laser Cutter. When it was done I used Millie’s paint pens to paint it for the tape I used scotch tape. I learned that if I where to make it again it needs to be like 1 1/2 inch shorter.

Spear and Custom widebody kit.

During Maker Space, I have been working on a series of projects,

One of those projects is a custom widebody kit for a car. Using tinker cad I found an unfinished Nissan 240sx, I decided to make a widebody kit for it. I will make the car without any modifications but add little clips to it to clip the widebody kit. It’ll be 3d printed, and when done, I will add LEDs to the bottom of the car for a nice underglow and possibly headlights. I am also designing custom wheels and suspension for it.

So far I have learned the precision needed to get a perfect fit for the widebody kit as well as how next time I will not be using Tinker cad due to the unprofessional tools.

240sx in the process of fitting and designing the widebody and wheels.

Another thing I have been working on is a spear. I found a stick in the woods and got an idea to make a spear. First I skinned the bark off the stick to get a smoother surface. Currently, I am in the process of sharpening and shaping the spear. When done with sharpening and shaping the spear, I will burn native designs onto it, giving it an old yet astounding look. In progress, I have learned that it is necessary to take measurements before chiseling or cutting into the spear, as well as some native designs.

people paintings.

for my maker space project one of the many things I have done this quarter is paint people that go to my school. I have painted 3 people so far. Sophia, Lily, and Anisley. I did all of the paintings in different styles based on what the person I was painting wanted. It was challenging because I had to mach the skin colors and hair colors. I was pushed out of my comfort zone because I’m not used to making a real person, normally I draw people from my imagination. For my net painting I hope to paint features on a person to make it more realistic. This project was very fun to do and I’m excited to see who I paint next.

This is Anisley.
This is Sophia.
This is Lily.

Little coquette bow from string

I had a flower hairpin and didn’t like its design so I remade it to something I like more.

I had the idea to add crochet stings and yarn for the real bow part. There was the idea to add something else, so I “permanently borrowed” a little epoxy gem. I stuck it all together with hot glue I wasn’t super pleased with the product, so I’ll try to remake it with some other ideas. For the bow, I think I’ll hand make the loops and then add the strings on later. The next thing I’ll do is probably make the crochet strings shorter. I might add other things onto it as well.

bow

I tried to build a bow out of wood. I chose a non-flexible wood so the projectile did not even fly. I also made the bow too thick so when you shot it it would just go to the side and not forward. the reason why it did not fly far is because the bow is posted to flex and because I chose a non-flex wood it did not fly. next time I would choose flexible wood and be less thick.