Sensory board (Part 1)

This is the first version of my Sensory board and how I made it. First I cut out the wood to fit the buttons and switches then I attached the LEDs. Once everything was in place I soldered the Switches to the LEDs and soldered the LEDs to the Raspberry Pi Pico. I also added more fun sensory Items and I hot glued the wires down so they would not touch. After I did all of that I began coding it using python. I would suggest going along and checking each switch one by one after soldered instead of waiting till they are all done. This way it’s easier to go back and fix things if they break.

Fish Tank Project

I and a few other people have been working on setting up a fish tank for the Makerspace. So far, we have done a lot of research and created a list of materials that need to be bought in order for us to set up the tank.

Ferris Wheel

I created a Ferris wheel but instead of the seats, I made them holders for Polaroid pictures. The first thing that I created was the two circles. I added holes in each section so that I could put them both together using a metal bar. I then got the size of the Polaroid but I needed a spacing between the front and the back so that the Polaroid could fit into it. I didn’t know if a piece of wood would be too thick but it ended up being perfect if I used the thinnest wood. I also cut a section out of the top so that clips could fit into it.

For the clips, I tried wood but the ends did not separate enough so I tried to 3D print them. I 3D printed clips and they worked well until I put everything together and realized that the clips were too big and the Ferris wheel did not work how I wanted it to so I designed clips using acrylic. I made these clips smaller and open on the bottom so that if one breaks I can put them on from above and they fit.

The sides of the Ferris wheel were a challenge because I had to line up the holes for the motor, Raspberry Pi, and the motor controller. I couldn’t line up the motor controller correctly so I ended up hot glueing it to the side.

I put the code for the motor onto the Raspberry Pi. I used the code from: https://github.com/lurbano/picoW-basics

Originally the base did not have the two pieces going to each side but I needed to add it so that the Ferris wheel would have more stability.

Putting it all together was a big challenge because there are so many components and it was very fragile. I connected a gear to the motor and hot glued another gear to the center bar that interlocked to the other gear. I hot-glued all of the bars together in the middle component and attached the Polaroid holder. The middle component needed to connect to the center bar but hot glue did not work so I used epoxy and it worked perfectly.

Wolf Pack table

I really like Star Wars, especially the Clone Wars. So I decided to make a table with the Wolf Pack logo on it. The table has some LEDs around the edge.

Table with LEDs turned on.
Finished product (uncovered)

Procedure

Step 1. Get an 18 inch circle made of wood.

Step 2. Measure and mark the center of the circle on one side.

Step 3. Find the logo, download the image, and put the image on CorelDRAW.

Step 4. Etch the logo on the side of the wood with the marked center. Remember to align the wood so that the center of the logo is at the same position as the center of the wood. The machine used to etch the logo is the laser cutter

Step 5. Get an 8 foot long 2 in by 2 inch wood plank. Measure and cut three sections of the plank. Each section should be 23 inches long. There will be some extra wood, though it will not be used.

Step 6. Get a Raspberry Pi Pico and solder the headers onto it.

Step 7. Measure the circumference of the circle. Cut the length of the circumference off of an LED strip. Round to the nearest LED.

Step 8. Cut a red wire, a black wire, and a green wire. Each wire should be about 10 inches long.

Step 9. Strip the wires on both sides and cut them so that there is only about half of a centimeter of exposed wire on each side.

Step 10. Solder the black wire to the copper colored area labeled “GND”, the red wire to the one labeled “+5v”, and the green wire to the one labeled “DIN”.

Step 11. Solder the black wire to any pin labeled “GND”, the red wire to the pin labeled “VBUS”, and the green wire to any “GP” pin. (any GP pin will be labeled as “GP” then a number)

Step 12. Use a hole say jig on one end of each of the three pieces. Drill four holes on each piece. (one on each side)

Step 13. Screw on the legs.

Step 14. Code the Raspberry Pi to make the LEDs light up at full brightness.

Step 15. add some other features to the LED code. (optional)

Improving my plant board

I decided to improve my project from last year. 

Last year I made the board for plants and primarily worked on LED light coding. This year I focused on the board itself. 

My goals were to make the boxes more functional and possibly in the future to adjust it to the size of plant pots and to paint the world map.

I painted the map which was very fun and relaxing but I had a little challenge – the paint was too liquidy. I could see the brown board from underneath the paint. I solved this problem by mixing cornstarch and the paint. Cornstarch made the pain look more thick and expansive, and gave me full coverage of the board.

To mix paint and cornstarch no necessary proportion needed, I just added as much as I thought would help thicken the paint.

I painted it white so anyone could add something on the map. Landmark, forest, mountains or perhaps something that represents a specific region or a country. Some sort of a group project.

This project also allowed me to refresh my knowledge of how to work with the lasercut and how to make the boxes on the computer. 

Overall I am pretty happy with the results but I already have ideas of how to improve it in the future. I have a feeling this project will never be fully finished. 

As Harley’s tattoo says “Art is never finished. Only abandoned” 🙂

Broken necklace that had a new life

This necklace was one of my favorite necklaces but unfortunately I left it in a packet of my hoodie and washed it. The blue crystals that were inside of the necklace washed away left me with perfect mold for an epoxy project. So I decided to do one that I could wear everyday and that would be a machine with a lot of my outfits. 

Before:

I did not know how to work with epoxy but Ben was willing to help. He showed me how to mix the liquids and how to get rid of the bubbles that appear in the process of mixing.

The necklace turned exactly how I wanted and adding a little star and a moon was a good idea.

 Unfortunately I don’t have a picture of the final product because I lost it 🙁  but i enjoyed the mini project.  

Shark Sword

During a few maker space periods, I have come to make a sword. Starting off with helping a friend complete their sword to complete mine later on. I cut out a wood piece, the perfect size for my liking, later to be lost in the maker space. Even with that set back, I found another piece of wood (not in use) that would be a semi good replacement. It took 23 minutes to cut and trimmed it down so it would sorta have a blade and I was done!

Epoxy chess pieces

For my Makerspace project I worked with Ben. We made epoxy chess pieces, first we got the molds for the chess pieces. Then we filled them up with water to get the volume and see how much epoxy we would have to mix. We then mixed the epoxy and poured it in the molds. Our first attempt didn’t turn out well so we had to redo it. This time we made sure to pour slow to make sure all the parts of the mold were filled. Are second attempt turned out perfect.

Dollhouse Table

This quarter I made a table for a dollhouse. Designing this table was an easy progress because it was a simple drawing. I had to measure the lengths to be sure it was a perfect cut. After I drew my model, I made it in the laser machine to cut out the correct measurements. This is the first step to different furniture that will be added to a dollhouse.

Fiber optic LED lamp

Over first quarter I made a fiber optic LED lamp. I did this by 3D printing a base, frame, and a cover that a found online. I first printed the frame and cover using the big green 3D printer, and then it broke, so I had to print the base on the tiny orange printer (which ended up not mattering all that much because I had to redesign it to fit an RPi Pico instead of the Arduino microcontroller it was designed for.) After two failed attempts at printing the base, the third one finally worked and I was able to begin assembly.

The first thing I did was make sure it all fit, which it didn’t, so I used some sandpaper and made it fit. Then I soldered together an LED strip and wired it through the frame and into the base, After that, I soldered the LEDs to the RPi Pico and ran a test code to make sure everything worked.

I glued the LEDs into the frame and lined them up with the holes for the fiber optics, I also screwed in the RPi and put some code on it that made it colorful. Finally I took a 5000x3mm fiber optic cable and cut it into random lengths to fit into the holes at different angles, and then it was done.